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Discussion Starter #1
The Bullitt archive gives a great how to on changing the front pads, is the process essentially the same for the rear? I watched Dave change my back pads at a track event and he used this square little tool to push the piston back (the pads were down to the metal).

I'd like to save some money this year at the track and do this myself so your guidance would be appreciated. If there is a link, etc. please let me know.
 

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You can use a 9 inch c-clamp to compress the pistons. Remember to open you brake booster resevoir before compressing!!!
 

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They do in fact need to be turned in, not just compressed. The little square thing can be a pain to use sometimes. But this is what it looks like http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd3163.html I am sure once you get good at it, that would be the tool to use if you wanted to do them quickly. And the price is right.

Autozone also rents a kit that you may find a little easier to work with. And since they rent it, that means they also sell it. You can also find them online. They look like this http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ap7860.html There is a whole pile of adaptors that you don't need.
 

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droopysbullitt said:
We haven't had anyone step up and write detailed instructions for the rear brakes. Anyone???
I would like to see that as well as I want to remove my calipers and re-paint then in red to tide me over
untill I replace all of them .
Is the e beake link a pain to adjust etc.
 

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Former Owner of 2001 DHG1557
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One thing to consider when doing the brakes is that when you loosen or remove the cap on the master cylinder some brake fluid could overflow onto your nice painted firewall or other components. This would be especially true if you happened to add fluid as your brakes wore down. When you put the C-clamp or tool (for rear) and compress the pistons, the extra fluid might escape the master cylinder and onto your your firewall etc. I would recommend removing some of the fluid from the master cylinder to prevent the overflow before starting. You could just use a small new absorbent paper towel, have a pail or something to put it into so as not to drip on anything, or a dixie cup or whatever works for you as long as it is clean and will not contaiminate the brake fluid. Fancier suction devices could be used too. I would also find a large old rag to wrap around the mastercylinder to catch any thing that might still happen to come out during the brake job. You will also need a little bit of new fluid to add back in once done. Just don't take out too much fluid to keep from getting air into the lines.

Lee
 

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Something like a turkey baster will work. Just make sure you never use it again for basting a turkey ;)
 

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01GTB said:
Something like a turkey baster will work. Just make sure you never use it again for basting a turkey ;)
That's how kitchen tools become garage tools for good. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks guys! This is great info and just what I was looking for.

The weekend that I change the brake pads....somebody will be on call though, right? :lol:
 

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Looks like I will be doing rear pads tonight/tomorrow as well. I'll let you know if anything comes up.

I do use the Cobra pads for both the front and rear, right?
 

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Man, you guys suck!!! After reading this I had to go look at my rear brakes and low and behold the pad on the driver side is just about gone and is eating right through my rotor!!!! Where can I get cheap replacement rotors? O'highly's doesn't have them in stock and everywhere else only has $50.00+ rotors!!!
 

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BlackBullitt5583, I got replacement Brembo rotors from Autobarn dirt cheap. I bought front ones at the same time (not as dirt cheap, but reasonable) to get free shipping. They also always have a deal like "$15 off 150" or something like that. If you choose to go that route, look up the parts for a 2001 Cobra instead of GT.
 

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5111 said:
Looks like I will be doing rear pads tonight/tomorrow as well. I'll let you know if anything comes up.

I do use the Cobra pads for both the front and rear, right?
Definitely Cobra pads front and rear for the Bullitt. Cobra rotors also, in case anyone is wondering about that question.
 

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Okay, I just finished doing the brakes and yes, the rear pads do suck, but the fronts did too.

The hardest part on the rears is winding in that damn caliper. Just remember that you twist it clockwise, and unless you also push really hard it won't go in no matter how much you turn. Also, remember to line up the holes before putting on the pads. Ricky Racers post helped tons. I bought the tool at Oreilly's for $12.

The fronts sucked too, but mostly because of the pin. I couldn't get the pin to slide in and tried everything. I didn't want to force it in because it seems like that would keep the calipers from moving easily. In the end I gave up and just tapped it in with a hammer. It seems to work fine, but I still don't like the idea.

I also took some pics and may do a write up when I have more time. For now, I'm done with brakes! Disc brakes are supposed to be easy!!! :mad:
 
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