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Discussion Starter #1
Do any of you San Jose Bullittheads know of any good mechanics in the area, or maybe a fellow Bullitthead that wouldn't mind checking out my car? Reason is, I had my oil changed today at Jiffy Lube, simply because I had a free coupon and didn't wanna put it to waste, and it expired today as well, so I figured, why not. Now I've heard stories of Jiffy Lube doing a half-assed job and whatnot, and I even remember reading on these forums that one time they didn't tighten the oil pan completely, and somebody's Bullitt lost all the oil in the car and the engine fried (not sure if it was Jiffy Lube.) They used "Quaker State Synthetic 10W30 Synthetic Ultra Premium" for my car (I got the name from Google :p.) If I'm not mistaken, this should be my oil, I remember seeing 4x4 on the computer at Jiffy Lube.

Anyway, back to the story. Tonight I was on the freeway, and it was empty, so I decided to punch it a little. Come 100 MPH and my car started vibrating, just like an old car trying to do 80/90 MPH on the freeway. Pretty much, I wanna do a complete check out on my car, anything and everything that has to do with the engine. So if somebody can point me in the right direction to a mechanic that wouldn't mind doing a free check up, or like I said, any other Bullitthead that wouldn't mind checking out my car, I'd greatly appreciate it. In case Doc Coffin is reading this thread, I just moved to San Jose. I now reside off of the 280, next to Saratoga and Stevens Creek.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I'm thinking of redoing the oil filter on my own, you know, just because. Also, since Jiffy Lube takes out your air filter and shows it to you then asks if you want it changed (I said no,) when they put it back on, it was loose. I didn't notice it until today when I was reading the BULLITT Archive. If you look at the bottom of the page, it says that "there is flange on the side of the MAF that the tube will butt up against." I checked mine on the same side as the one in the picture, it wasn't touching. The left side was, but not the right. I unscrewed the tightener, pushed it in place, then retightened it, and did the same with the air inlet tube from the throttle body at the top because it wasn't touching.

I haven't driven the Bullitt yet, but I'm guessing that might be why the car was shaking at high speeds? I don't really wanna test it right now because I'm too lazy to go out and have no reason to, plus I'll just be putting miles on my car and wasting gas. I'll drive it tomorrow when I go to work, unless I have to go out tonight, but until then, can anybody give me an educated guess as to if that might fix the vibration at high speeds? If not, it has to be the oil/oil filter, anybody agree?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well as I said, I had a free coupon. My friend got the coupon when he bought his Scion tC, and since he didn't need an oil change within a month being brand new with 4 miles and all, he decided he'd give it to me. Once they started draining my oil and changing my filter, they told me that the coupon wasn't valid with that car, it had to be used with the car purchased. I started flippin' out in my head. I told the guy I had no money, it was gonna cost about $50. I literally only have $114.19 in my bank, and that doesn't include the all the credit charges I do to my debit card - I hate using my card as debit, some places charge you $.50-$1 for just using it. I just moved up to San Jose as I said for a job, but this job starts off slow as it's a commission based job. In about 2 weeks, my check is gonna be $600, and that's from 1 weeks work. After that check, they're all gonna be a steady minimum of $400. Anyway, back to the story. The guy behind the counter went to his manager and asked him if I could use the coupon, so he agreed. That's why I don't wanna go back and complain seeing as they were nice enough to let me use a coupon that wasn't meant for my car.
 

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I'm a mechanic at a Ford dealer and these modular engines are picky about what weight of oil is put in them. We have had some come in with 10w40 in them missing out bad because the lifters don't work well with thicker oil. 10w30 might be causing this problem to a lesser degree.
5w30 is the dessired oil. In 2001 Ford started recomending 5w20 to raise the fuel economy. According to the engineers they didn't change anything in the engine when they went to 5w20 so 5w30 will still work okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
All three Ford dealers in my area, Capitol Ford, Frontier Ford, and Sunnyvale Ford, all charge around $130 just for diagnostics alone. If the problem turns out to be something covered under my 6 month/6000 mile warranty, I don't get charged. I then asked if someone could just ride in my car for 5 minutes just to hear the sound, he said there's a minimum of 30 minutes, so even if he's with you for 5, you'll still have to pay for the 30 minutes, $62.50. Are there any Bullittheads in the area that wouldn't mind helping me out? I'll pay you if needed, but I don't have much money now :(.

[EDIT]

A little off topic, but should I use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil? Also, I'm thinking of switching over to Royal Purple 5W20. Is that a synthetic or semi-synthetic blend? One last question, anything I should know before I switch over, like any special instructions? I know 'Have BULLITT will travel' says something about replacing the oil filter after 1,000 miles, anything else I should know? Also, after those 1,000 miles, am I only supposed to replace the filter, or do another oil change as well? Thanks.
 

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Royal Purple is a synthetic oil. Switching to synthetic has its benefits and is a bit more expensive. I prefer using Amsoil in my vehicles. I don't know about replacing oil after the first 1000 miles but you always replace the filter when you change the oil. Using a good synthetic oil you could safely go 5000 miles between oil changes. I run on the track so I change oil every 3000 miles.

Also pm sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DOC1FMF said:
...snip...

I don't know about replacing oil after the first 1000 miles but you always replace the filter when you change the oil.

...snip...

Also pm sent.
I read your PM and replied, and I know that you change the filter whenever you change the oil, but let me link you to two posts he's made to show you what I mean.

http://www.imboc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1461206&postcount=6
http://www.imboc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1383790&postcount=14

Keep in mind I read the second link first (yesterday,) that's the post I was referring to. The first link I posted to I just found while doing a search just now :p. Anyway, the first post I linked to says to replace the oil and the oil filter, while the second one says to replace the oil filter and only to top off the oil, which leads to my question once again, but rephrased :p.

Once I use Royal Purple, I know I don't have to do what he said after 1000 miles but it's recommended so I'm gonna do it anyway, so should I:

A) Drain the oil and replace it with new oil along with a new filter, or;

B) Should I just replace the filter and top off the oil?

Option B would obviously be the money saver, but which do you guys recommend? Is option A pretty much a complete waste of money? Thanks once again :D.
 
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