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I recently brought my Bullitt to the dealer to have the 1-2 shift fork replaced. When I got the car back, nothing had changed, it was still grinding on the 1-2 shift when cold. The dealer is in the process of ordering a new synchronizer. Here's my thought, if the tranny is only grinding when cold, wouldn't that be a problem with the fluid, and not a mechanical part? The tranny works fine when it's warmed up. So, what has changed? As far as I know, the only thing that has changed would be the viscosity of the trans fluid. I also remember reading that some people here have had good results when they changed to a syntheteic tranny fluid. What do you think?
 

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I'm going to try the synthetic fluid when I take my car in this spring for an oil change. But it doesn't really bother me that much because you really should wait until both the engine oil and transmission fluid are warm before you really start driving quick. This actually tells me the car's really warmed up. I shift the 1-2 carefully until it's ready. So as long as it's gone after that I really don't care that much.
 

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In a previous post some one with the same problem switched to Amsoil synthetic universal ATF transmission fluid and said it alleviated the 1-2 crunch when cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-12-12 15:11, barry bullitt wrote:
I'm going to try the synthetic fluid when I take my car in this spring for an oil change. But it doesn't really bother me that much because you really should wait until both the engine oil and transmission fluid are warm before you really start driving quick. This actually tells me the car's really warmed up. I shift the 1-2 carefully until it's ready. So as long as it's gone after that I really don't care that much.
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This morning I let the car fully warm up before i took off and the tranny was still grinding. That's why i think that it might be the tranny fluid. I'm going to try the synthetic stuff noted in the post above (amsoil).


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: From the other side on 2001-12-12 16:01 ]</font>
 

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Yes From, but by letting the car warm up before you drive doesn't warm up the transmission oil. That only works in automatic transmissions. You have to drive it to get the tranny fluid warmed.

I have noticed this effect of the 1-2 grind from day one. I was worried for a while but if it's happening to everyone else too then I know it's just a characteristic and not a problem.

Why change it? 30 years from now we'll be sitting around saying "remember how the Bullitts would grind between first and second?" But I am a big proponent of heritage and originality of cars. Some of you may feel differently and that's cool.
 

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I had the dealer put in synthetic fluid months ago and it didnt make any difference. The car still grinds from 1-2 and slightly from 2-3 when cold. Of course i wasnt there watching over the dealer so for all i know they pulled out their wangs and peed in the transmission and told me they put in synthetic. I am convinced that the only way anything will get fixed right is if you somehow befriend a ford mechanic that actually knows wtf he is doing. The tricky part is finding one that knows wtf he is doing :wink:
 

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On 2001-12-12 21:49, Escrotumus wrote:
I had the dealer put in synthetic fluid months ago and it didnt make any difference. The car still grinds from 1-2 and slightly from 2-3 when cold. Of course i wasnt there watching over the dealer so for all i know they pulled out their wangs and peed in the transmission and told me they put in synthetic. I am convinced that the only way anything will get fixed right is if you somehow befriend a ford mechanic that actually knows wtf he is doing. The tricky part is finding one that knows wtf he is doing :wink:

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Well, synthetic is manmade, isn't it? :lol:

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG2404 on 2001-12-12 21:57 ]</font>
 

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:wink:
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-12-12 13:43, From the other side wrote:
I recently brought my Bullitt to the dealer to have the 1-2 shift fork replaced. When I got the car back, nothing had changed, it was still grinding on the 1-2 shift when cold. The dealer is in the process of ordering a new synchronizer. Here's my thought, if the tranny is only grinding when cold, wouldn't that be a problem with the fluid, and not a mechanical part? The tranny works fine when it's warmed up. So, what has changed? As far as I know, the only thing that has changed would be the viscosity of the trans fluid. I also remember reading that some people here have had good results when they changed to a syntheteic tranny fluid. What do you think?

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Same problem here. The dealer changed my shift fork but the tranny still makes the 1-2 catch/grind when cold. I'm thinking it has something to do with the trans fluid not circulating fast enough. Perhaps it's to heavy a fluid, I don't know. All I know is that it was a waste of time to let Ford break two more parts in my trans and have it sit on a rack for three weeks only to have the same problem again!
 

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I've got an 02 gt and i asked everyone from the dealer to Art Hyde himself if the 02 are even remotely concernend with the shift fork issue, and the answers were all not even close.

in fact, i've been told by a ford tech, that the forks the replace the defective ones with are the shift forks in the 02 trans.

my point is... i've got some serious notchiness (mostly when cold) but really all the time. its intermittant; does it maybe 3 out of 10 shifts (1-2 only).

i would say thn that its either a fluid problem or a function of the transmission.
 

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I just got the Bullitt back after 5 weeks for the shift fork fix & it's definitely been fixed.
1. There's no clunking or grinding
2. Cold shifting is no harder than when it warms up
So I'm satisfied the replacement fork will do the trick.
 

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I have posted this before but I have rebuilt a couple of different Tremec designs including the T-56. They utilize friction backed synchros in the T-56. Like clutches in the rear end, they will respond to friction modifiers. I switched to Redline MTL and MT-90 mix which worked great in Mitsu trannies with the same type of synchros. My tranny shifts better now than with the factory ATF.

I would give the Redline a try, or try adding some friction modifier, available from GM dealers and Ford Dealers.

Brian
 

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Hello all,

I'm gonna let ya in on a dirty little secret: when I had my '99 Cobra the thing to do at the first signs of 1-2 grind was to switch out the Ford factory fill tranny fluid for...are you ready for this?... GM Syncromesh fluid from your local GM dealer.

Yes, an unthinkable horror, but true. Check out the '99 Cobra boards on BlueOvalNews.com to see if they're still doing it.

All I know is that me and my friends did the switch, and presto...buttery soft shifts.

What else can I say? Ask around.
My Bullitt has no problems at all with the 1-2, so I'm not going to tempt fate. But the minute I get the problem...

I hope this helps. Good luck.
 

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Ok, according to the owners manual our trans is supposed to have Mobil 1 synthetic already in it. My question is, what difference is it going to make by switching to Redline if we already have a "synthetic" fluid? Are there different weight trans fluids like engine oil? What have other Bullittheads switched to, and um...where is the filler cap? :smile:
 

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Brian,
Is the amount of the friction modifier I purchase from my Ford dealer small enough that I can add it to the original fulid already in there and it will all fit? Do I need a special tool to add the modifier?

Thanks for the info!
Jim

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DHG #1302 on 2001-12-14 16:37 ]</font>
 

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I have had the 1-2 click-click-click-clack for some time now when it is cold. Course when it warms up it is fine or at least liveable. After reading what Brian said about the friction modifiers I looked at the Redline oil products and was able to find some D4 ATF locally for $7.95 a quart. Changed the fluid this weekend. What a difference. A big improvement. Cold shifting, with the new fluid is almost as good as when it was warmed up. Warmed up is nearly perfect. The other shifts are smoother. Less trans noise and you can not hear the synchronizers spin up, except if you were to downshift into first, that you can still hear a little.
Very worth while. May save you from having the dealer rip the trans out for nothing...
Here is the link for Red Line oil...then look for ATF D4.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products.htm
and before bobistheoilguy says anything I don't work for Redline oil either....
 

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Mid Life,
Thanks again. Your research is appreciated. I will check out the site and get some of that. I look forward to better shifts.
Thanks,
Jim
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2001-12-17 20:34, Mid Life Crisis #388 wrote:
I have had the 1-2 click-click-click-clack for some time now when it is cold. Course when it warms up it is fine or at least liveable. After reading what Brian said about the friction modifiers I looked at the Redline oil products and was able to find some D4 ATF locally for $7.95 a quart. Changed the fluid this weekend. What a difference. A big improvement. Cold shifting, with the new fluid is almost as good as when it was warmed up. Warmed up is nearly perfect. The other shifts are smoother. Less trans noise and you can not hear the synchronizers spin up, except if you were to downshift into first, that you can still hear a little.
Very worth while. May save you from having the dealer rip the trans out for nothing...
Here is the link for Red Line oil...then look for ATF D4.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products.htm
and before bobistheoilguy says anything I don't work for Redline oil either....


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I'm gonna ask a stupid question, but how do you change the fluid in a manual trans? This is the first manual trans I've ever owned let alone try and change the fluid in. I assume there's a drain plug on the bottom but where is the refill plug and how many quarts does it take to fill er up again? Thanks.
 
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