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Discussion Starter #1
Bullitt 3613 (my son's) has had a *hard* clutch since we got it off the used car lot. Have since replaced everything (including a new Centerforce clutch and TKO tranny), and still no joy. Pedal is still hard, and has trouble going in gear. None of the local shops can/will work on it. Had the tranny replaced in Fort Worth, but that's a long $ drive from here. Can anyone recommend a shop in San Antonio, Houston or Corpus for tranny/clutch work?
Thanks
 

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Quadrant and Adjuster

+1

CF DF here too.

And, you won't need a Shop. You and your Son can install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, we did the Steeda quadrant, firewall adjuster and cable first. It changed nothing on the feel, but *did* seem to help on the engagement. But that didn't last. Back to grinding, missing shifts, etc. Then we had the CF DF installed. No change. Then the tranny. No change. Seems like, with everything but the pedal being replaced, *something* would've changed. If I didn't have my Bullitt (which shifts like butter), I would've come to the conclusion that these cars have 100 lb clutch pedals in them.
 

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Hummmmm........

STRANGE! Esp since you changed the Trans and still have the same problem. Almost sounds like the cable is not routed correctly and in a bind?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's a thought. And since I have one to compare it to, I'll make sure that's not the case. If only my son and his Bullitt were home more than 5 minutes a day, I might have that chance....
 

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Charles
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A few items left that you have not listed as replaced but maybe you did.
- Pilot bearing (always good to replace when replacing clutch)
- Ball pivot (can cause problems - many recommend to replace when replacing clutch)
- Clutch fork (can cause problems - at least inspect when replacing clutch
- Cable (stretches and loses lubbrication - many say to replace as needed with OEM cable)

My bet would be that the cable is old and deteriorated.
 

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All good points.

The general consensus is that the OEM Cable is better than the Steeda Replacement that comes with the Quadrant/Adjuster Kit.

I left my OEM cable on the car when I changed clutches and just kept the Steeda replacement cable as an emergency spare.
 

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I have a few questions for you….

1) Is this the OE bell housing?
2) How did the Pivot ball look?
3) Is the Clutch fork new or used?
4) Was your transmission collar galled/worn?

The DF clutch you have should be about the same pedal effort as a stock clutch. I believe you said the pedal was stiff when you bought the car correct? If you know someone else with a Bullitt try their pedal to see how yours compares. If yours is stiff I would want to check the geometry inside of your bell housing (pivot or bent clutch fork). Let me know what you come up with?

You can call our tech line also (800) 932-5882 for any questions you may have.

Best regards,

Will Baty
Centerforce Clutches
 

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Charles
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Will Baty said:
I have a few questions for you….

1) Is this the OE bell housing?
2) How did the Pivot ball look?
3) Is the Clutch fork new or used?
4) Was your transmission collar galled/worn?

The DF clutch you have should be about the same pedal effort as a stock clutch. I believe you said the pedal was stiff when you bought the car correct? If you know someone else with a Bullitt try their pedal to see how yours compares. If yours is stiff I would want to check the geometry inside of your bell housing (pivot or bent clutch fork). Let me know what you come up with?

You can call our tech line also (800) 932-5882 for any questions you may have.

Best regards,

Will Baty
Centerforce Clutches
Will, what's your stance on replacement of the ball stud and possibly clutch fork whenever the clutch is replaced? I did not change mine but wish I would have since the car has 114k mileage. I have the DF with the Steeda set-up and I nearly put the pedal through the floor the first time driving after having a Spec Stage 1 for 70k miles. Is the main problem seen with the ball and fork binding or some other problem?
 

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As long as they have the proper lubrication it is not an issue at all. We usually check the Pivot Ball, Clutch Fork and the T.O.B. Collar for excessive wear before they are re-installed. The T.O.B. collar is the one that most people miss, as the clutch wears the T.O.B. is moves slowly back toward the transmission. The T.O.B. slides back & forth on the collar so without proper lubrication it can wear the collar. When you put a new clutch in, the T.O.B. is now closer to the flywheel. If the TO.B. Collar is worn then it could have a step/grove on it, this causes the new T.O.B. not slide on the collar freely. This can cause a heavy pedal, release issue or a sticky feeling pedal. Very rarely do I see a worn Pivot Ball or Bent Clutch Fork…..if it is worn it is usually due to poor lubrication. Other causes could be; an overly stiff diaphragm clutch or a Three finger clutch without the proper lubrication. Below is a link to our Diagnostic guide that can be very helpful to help you determine how your clutch is working for you.

http://media.centerforce.com/DiagGuide/DiagnosticGuide04DL.pdf

Let me know what you think of our Guide.

Take Care,

Will Baty
Centerforce Clutches
 

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Thanks Will!
You are a valuable asset to our site. I learned alot reading this post.
--Laura
 

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Discussion Starter #13
1) Is this the OE bell housing?
2) How did the Pivot ball look?
3) Is the Clutch fork new or used?
4) Was your transmission collar galled/worn?
Will,
You're asking a non-mechanic some mechanical questions.:redface:
We had the clutch installed locally, and drove 600 miles to have the tranny installed. About the only question I can answer is #1, no, the OE bell housing was replaced, when we had the TKO-500 put in, about 3 months after the clutch was installed. I can only assume that the clutch fork is still the same, as neither shop charged me for one.
Can any of these other things be checked by myself, without removal of the tranny?
Thanks
 

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tko's are not that bad to replace. Alot easier than the stock tranny. At least for me anyways.
 
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