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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey I think I'm fixing to order the H&R SS Springs. Do I need the Spring Isolators they sale for them. Please Help. Also how hard is it to put these on myself. I have a lift where I can get the whole car off the ground to at least head level.
 

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springs are a super easy install....you can reuse your factory isolators if they are in good condition, or you can leave them out completely with no adverse effects other than a little more of a drop.

for the rear, put the car on jackstands (on the body of the car, I use the subframe connectors), place a jack under the differential and preload the suspension. unbolt the shocks and quad shocks on each side. slowly lower the jack (which will lower the entire rear end). remove the factory springs, replace them with your new springs, jack the rear end back up and bolt everything back up. you may need to jack up one side at a time and push down on the other to get the taller factory springs out of their perches but the new ones should slide right in without much trouble.

for the front, with the car on jackstands once again, (one side at a time) place a floor jack under the a arm and pre-load the suspension. then remove the top strut nut and slowly lower the jack and the top of the strut out of the strut tower.....remove factory spring, replace with new spring. raise the jack and guide the strut shaft back through the stut tower, put the nut back on making sure to match up the number of threads to make both sides equal. lower the jack. repeat for the other side.

if you've got a lift that will make things easier but you'll be using the same procedures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TheCat033 said:
if you've got a lift that will make things easier but you'll be using the same procedures.

ok thanks. so i have the lift but i also have the jack stands and the jack. which way is the fastest and the easiest? i can do both.
 

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It was faster and easier for me to use a jack and a 2 post lift. used the lift to get the whole car up in the ir, then used the jack at ll 4 corners to do the dirty work. I was done with the entire car in less than 2 hours, including swapping the steering rack (to fix a leaking stocker). As for the isolaters, I put in some BBK urathane ones. I have never regretted that move.

One thing I would recomend doing during the removal to prevent any damage, would be to loosen the control arm bolts (no need to remove) to keep from damaging the bushings. Unless you want an excuse later to upgrade to the '03 Cobra control arms....
 

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I just did my spring install last weekend, and it was super easy. Did the rears by myself in the driveway in about an hour taking my time. I had a friend help me with the fronts, which took about an hour and a half, and we put new struts and caster camber plates on at the same time.
 

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bullitt3572 said:
ok thanks. so i have the lift but i also have the jack stands and the jack. which way is the fastest and the easiest? i can do both.
if you've got the lift use it man, get the car in the air and use the jack like I mentioned above....i'm used to working on the ground with everything I do, a lift will make your job alot easier
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok thanks so how do ya'll recomend me installing new shocks and struts too since I'd be going with the H&R SS Springs? If I do need them, how hard are they to put in and how much time does it take? I was thinking if I needed them I was going with the Bilstein HD Shock & Strut Package from AM.
 

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you shouldn't "need" them unless yours are worn out, our bullitts come with upgraded shocks and struts over GT's from the factory
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TheCat033 said:
you shouldn't "need" them unless yours are worn out, our bullitts come with upgraded shocks and struts over GT's from the factory

Thanks Pete so if I put the Super Sports on I will just need to check the alignment and thats it. Is c/c plates a must or not.
 

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Charles
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If you have the money, change the shocks/struts while you have the springs out. The springs are stiiffer than stock and you will definitely notice the difference with the Bilsteins.

If you use urethane spring isolators, you might get by without C/C plates. It won't get the drop that it will with stock isolators or no isolators. No isolators almost guarantees you will C/C plates, but then you might get lucky. I'm happy with my MM C/C plates.

Here is a pic of my car with the H&R SS springs. I used Prothane isolators. Notice my drop isn't extreme. I wish it was lower but then I don't have to worry as much about cracking the side skirts.

Alloy wheel Tire Rim Wheel Automotive tire

Alloy wheel Tire Rim Wheel Automotive tire

Land vehicle Car Vehicle Rim Wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So Charles do you have new shocks and struts or are you still running factory? So if I only buy the springs and just put them on without nothing else, will it work and ride good and not mess nothing up. If I absolutely need the isolators and c/c plates I can get them now. Might need to wait about a month or so for the Shocks and Struts unless ya'll think I "HAVE TO HAVE THEM".
 

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Unless your car feels like a boat on the water, you don't need new shocks/struts. Very simple analogy, but should work. As for C/C plates, you don;t need them to get a good alignment, but boy are they helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
MechanicMarc said:
Unless your car feels like a boat on the water, you don't need new shocks/struts. Very simple analogy, but should work. As for C/C plates, you don;t need them to get a good alignment, but boy are they helpful!

:lol: Thanks I like your analogy. So the c/c plates are worth the money. I might just get some.
 

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Charles
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bullitt3572 said:
So Charles do you have new shocks and struts or are you still running factory? So if I only buy the springs and just put them on without nothing else, will it work and ride good and not mess nothing up. If I absolutely need the isolators and c/c plates I can get them now. Might need to wait about a month or so for the Shocks and Struts unless ya'll think I "HAVE TO HAVE THEM".
Let me start by saying that I had my suspension work installed by a shop. My thoughts were to only spend the money once. They had the shocks and struts out so I might as well go back with new.

My car had 100k miles at the time. The bushing kit that came with the shocks was wrong so they did not inatll the rear shocks. They re-installed the old shocks in back. I drove around with the new setup for a couple of weeks and then changed the rear shocks myself. The ride was like night and day. Keep in mind the mileage I had. I believe yours is a lot less.

The SS springs are quite a bit stiffer than the stock ones but they are also progressive instead of linear. Progressives get stiffer as they compress. Linears maintain the same stiffness throughout. The stock shocks and struts are better than the GT but are not necessarily designed for the stiffness of the SS. They will wear faster over time with the SS than they would with the stock springs. Don't worry, it won't happen overnight.

Since you're putting the springs in yourself, you can try out the stock struts/shocks see how you like the ride. If you don't, reinstall something better later.

Marc is right in that you'll be able to align it. You might not be able to get as much negative camber out as you would like though. You might not be able to get both sides the same. You'll have no caster adjustment at all (you have none now). The C/C plates make it very easy to align and allow more flexibility in settings. Check the MM site for recommended settings for daily drivers.

You can talk to everyone, you can look at pictures, you can read specifications. At the end of the day, it seems like every single car is a little different due to manufacturing tolerances and they will all setup a little different after you're done.

Hope this helps. You've received a lot of good info from others but you have to ultimately decide. There is no single answer. You'll probably still have some tweaking you want to do when you're done. I remember reading a post (Ford Fan I think) that the owner had his springs and isolators out three times getting it just right to his eye. He then went to coilovers later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks charles and yeah my baby only has 17,500 miles on here. I think I am just going to install the springs now and try it out. I will probably in a couple of weeks put c/c plates on it. If push comes to shove I will just by the new shocks and struts, but from what I've heard with my car having this low of miles I might can go a long time on the factory shocks and struts. Is this some what true? Also so would you or would you not buy the new isolators and install them. Again with that low of miles are mine still good?
 

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Charles
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bullitt3572 said:
Thanks charles and yeah my baby only has 17,500 miles on here. I think I am just going to install the springs now and try it out. I will probably in a couple of weeks put c/c plates on it. If push comes to shove I will just by the new shocks and struts, but from what I've heard with my car having this low of miles I might can go a long time on the factory shocks and struts. Is this some what true? Also so would you or would you not buy the new isolators and install them. Again with that low of miles are mine still good?
Your isos are probably just fine and the stance will be a little better than mine.

Just be careful pulling into driveways and stay away from speed bumps.

It should look great when you're done.
 

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You should be fine with the stock shocks struts. The main thing you need to watch out for after it's lowered is scraping the mudflap pieces and longtubes if you have them. As long as you're careful you shouldn't have any issues.

I just bought the 03/04 cobra rocker panels so I wouldn't have to worry about hitting those mudflap pieces...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
BLACK_2425 said:
You should be fine with the stock shocks struts. The main thing you need to watch out for after it's lowered is scraping the mudflap pieces and longtubes if you have them. As long as you're careful you shouldn't have any issues.

I just bought the 03/04 cobra rocker panels so I wouldn't have to worry about hitting those mudflap pieces...

Well funny you say that I have BBK Long Tubes in my garage right now waiting till this weekend to put on.:lol: Guess we will see if they will scrap. Hope not. Anyone got advise on this. I might need it.
 

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bullitt3572 said:
So will have trouble lowering it with the Long Tubes on?
I had sportlines on the car for 2 years with my SLP longtubes and didn't have any problems....the only time I really scraped was on the cats (which hang down a bit lower than when I have just the race pipes on) and obviously over speedbumps and such but I never hit the LT's themselves....and when I first did the coil-overs I had the car slammed in front for a while and didn't have any problems so you shouldn't either

If it makes you feel more comfortable i've seen people have "skid plates" welded on to the bottom of their LT's to protect them
 
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