Thanks for the great info. I would like to see if a larger area MAF sensor, properly matched to the computer does any good. There has been some good discussion here concerning possible intake restriction by the stock sensor
How about a 100mm Densecharger to start? Then an aluminium drive shaft. Exhaust mods (LT headers, H-pipe with cats) a chip, then get into the intake and MAF sensor, then cams and head work. This is my plan for the drive train, minus wheel spacers and shifter. Those last 2 things won't show up on the dyno anyway.
Thanks for doing this man, its great to have
another source of first hand data on Bullittclub!
How about testing different types of exhausts. Give a comparison on X vs H vs Mac prochamber with different cat backs. Like have a baffled muffler cat back and a flow through muffler cat back which would allow 6 different exhaust combination that could be tested.
This is probably unreasonable, but the info you could get would be really cool. Could help dispell some of the exhaust myths.
The Steeda parts are a possibility. I'm leary about the T/A because mine is daily driven year round, and I don't know how it'll hold up in the winter. If I get enough people that want to see it, I'll see what I can do. Mike Raburn has done some parts already http://www.stangnet.com/pbullitt/
Between the two of us, I'm sure we can work towards whatever people want to see. Just feed me requests of what you want, and I'll do what I can do make it happen.
I plan on doing the FRPP aluminum DS, but it's hard to associate numbers with it. It doesn't really show on a dyno, but real world driving difference is incredible.
This is what I have planned from now 'till spring:
2. Maximum Motosports STB (when actually released for the Bullitt, they're revising the instructions to reflect Bullitt specific items)
3. FRPP Al Driveshaft
Anything else is up to the suggestions I get. So far I've heard MAF meter, and chip.
The downside of doing a chip is it's tuned for the mods you have, so every time a new mod is done, the chip SHOULD be reburnt. This isn't necessary, but the whole point of the chip is to maximize the EEC to the car. If you change the car but not the EEC program, you might as well have not bothered.
When I get the car where I plan on leaving it for while (i.e. no more mods), I'll consider a chip.
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