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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just noticed a few weeks back. Right side sticks out more than left (09 stock mufflers). My car OCD may not let this go...Ford build quality? Looked underneath with a tech while it was up on lift. No sign of anything broken/damaged/bent/etc. Is this typical?
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Mine end right at the contour of the bumper cover and appear to be pretty even. I'll have to keep my eyes open next time I see another. You should be able to even them out as mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mine end right at the contour of the bumper cover and appear to be pretty even. I'll have to keep my eyes open next time I see another. You should be able to even them out as mentioned above.
Just tried. Loosend up the left clamp to try and pull that one out just a bit and no luck. Maybe it it was up on lift and some rubber mallet nudging. But, from underneath on the ground, not happening. If it's back on the lift sometime soon, will see if tech will give it a shot. Thanks.
 

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If I'm not mistaken, those mufflers and some replacements, have a "V" shaped notch to position it properly when installing. that "V" shaped notch has a corresponding "V" shaped protrusion on the pipe. that "bump" on the pipe will keep it from going in any further. grind or file down the "bump" and it should go where you want.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If I'm not mistaken, those mufflers and some replacements, have a "V" shaped notch to position it properly when installing. that "V" shaped notch has a corresponding "V" shaped protrusion on the pipe. that "bump" on the pipe will keep it from going in any further. grind or file down the "bump" and it should go where you want.
Yep. Noticed the notches and bumps. That's why I tried to pull out on the left side as the right one didn't appear like it would go in any further. No dice.
 

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The hangers may be what is limiting you in pulling it further out. so the next step would be to determine, which way you would rather have it....both further in or both further out. then you can grind down the bump if you want it in, or you will have to loosen the hanger, possibly remove it and notch the holes some do get some adjustment. I don't recall the look of the hanger....been awhile since I was under one of those cars to know about notching, i.e., opening the holes up, oval shaped preferably, in order to get some adjustment.
 

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Any suggestions on how to loosen where the muffler overlaps/meets with the pipe?
If there is no more room for an adjustment (pass right side), Most likely your front pipe(Where H pipe meets the rest of the pipe) is not in all way. Press that long section of the pipe all the way in. 1/2 inch is all it takes to have a tip sticking out that far and misaligned such as yours. To loosen up the clamp and pipe joints, try using some wd40 and soft mallet. From my experience, when I loosen the clamp, I can wiggle the muffler out of the joint without an issue with a little force. Easiest way is to jack up and suppot the rear and take passenger side wheel off. OR just simply take the car to any muffler shop and have them re-align the whole exhaust system. should take no more then 30-40 mins. Your OCD will end there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If there is no more room for an adjustment (pass right side), Most likely your front pipe(Where H pipe meets the rest of the pipe) is not in all way. Press that long section of the pipe all the way in. 1/2 inch is all it takes to have a tip sticking out that far and misaligned such as yours. To loosen up the clamp and pipe joints, try using some wd40 and soft mallet. From my experience, when I loosen the clamp, I can wiggle the muffler out of the joint without an issue with a little force. Easiest way is to jack up and suppot the rear and take passenger side wheel off. OR just simply take the car to any muffler shop and have them re-align the whole exhaust system. should take no more then 30-40 mins. Your OCD will end there.
Thanks. I've watched a few videos on YT of guys removing the mufflers for a swap of one sort or another. Waiting on a friend to check if he has a 13mm box end ratcheting wrench that supposedly will make getting the hanger holder that sits on top of the muffler off. I think what I need is to be able to get both hanger holders off and hopefully that will give me enough leverage to get the movement I'm looking for. Honestly, I like the tip showing a bit (like my right one). So, just want to get the left to slip out about 1/2 in. Otherwise, they stay as is until if/when I actually replace the mufflers. Thanks again to all for the assist.
 

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carnut65

Be sure to check all the hangers and make sure they are installed correctly, meaning brackets facing correct direction and not upside down, etc. I have seen so many people make this mistake when they take off the hangers and re-installing the mufflers. I am sure you will get it done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
In the words of some guy on YT who tried to replace muffs on his own: "I'm a defeated man". Two hours later and nothing. There's no "slack" in any of the components to allow for just the 1/2 in. I needed to have left tip come out some. Only way left the muff/mid pipe connectionsbarely meeting up. Seemed too risky. If I decide to keep the stock muffs and not replace soon, I guess I'll stop in a muff shop and see what they recommend. Maybe a small 4 in. additional "spacer" in between mid-pipe/muff? Side note: every video I found and even an old PDF over at AM didn't get the # of screws related to the two hanger brackets. And there locations if you're working from underneath with just the car jacked, damn!
 

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maybe buy a propane torch and heat the slip joints up a bit.
also if you use the newer MAPP gas called bluefire, this burns hotter so it will heat faster, it might speed things up a bit.

just a FYI if you want to pick things up a notch. they also make and sell a SMALL OXY / MAPP torch that can heat as good as a oxy / acetylene torch. there will be 2 small tanks the size of the propane torch you often see in stores now. this is very convenient for home use. it's somewhat $$$. but compared to a full sized torch it's rather cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
maybe buy a propane torch and heat the slip joints up a bit.
also if you use the newer MAPP gas called bluefire, this burns hotter so it will heat faster, it might speed things up a bit.

just a FYI if you want to pick things up a notch. they also make and sell a SMALL OXY / MAPP torch that can heat as good as a oxy / acetylene torch. there will be 2 small tanks the size of the propane torch you often see in stores now. this is very convenient for home use. it's somewhat $$$. but compared to a full sized torch it's rather cheap.
Thanks. But, my gear head talents mixed with a torch couldn't possibly lead to anything good....
 

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In the words of some guy on YT who tried to replace muffs on his own: "I'm a defeated man". Two hours later and nothing. There's no "slack" in any of the components to allow for just the 1/2 in. I needed to have left tip come out some. Only way left the muff/mid pipe connectionsbarely meeting up. Seemed too risky. If I decide to keep the stock muffs and not replace soon, I guess I'll stop in a muff shop and see what they recommend. Maybe a small 4 in. additional "spacer" in between mid-pipe/muff? Side note: every video I found and even an old PDF over at AM didn't get the # of screws related to the two hanger brackets. And there locations if you're working from underneath with just the car jacked, damn!

Maybe your exhaust hangers are bent on one side or hangers are installed backwards…. Highly unlikely but you never know.
 
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