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Discussion Starter #1
Finally.....finally took my car to a repair shop. Car showed no codes but the mechanic did a "smoke test" and determined that I have a vacuum leak through the EGR and the Idle Control Valve. How much do you think they want to replace the parts and repair?
 

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Hook 'Em said:
Finally.....finally took my car to a repair shop. Car showed no codes but the mechanic did a "smoke test" and determined that I have a vacuum leak through the EGR and the Idle Control Valve. How much do you think they want to replace the parts and repair?
They told my brother the exact same thing on his Mustang and when it didn't fix it they then told him that the number 8 cylinder was bad and that he needed either new plugs, a new coilpack, or a new injector. So who really knows?
 

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I had a car with a fault and they told me I needed a new EGR valve but they could not explain what it did !
It did not cure the problem and I made them take it back off.

6 months later when my car went back in they fitted it again ? ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hook 'Em said:
Finally.....finally took my car to a repair shop. Car showed no codes but the mechanic did a "smoke test" and determined that I have a vacuum leak through the EGR and the Idle Control Valve. How much do you think they want to replace the parts and repair?

$485.00

Not too happy about it. After they put these parts in, they tell me I need a tune-up if I want the car to run at 100%. Now I know why I've traded every car in after I paid it off.
 

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Where did you take it? I'll try to avoid that shop. You're right, sometimes it's more peace of mind just to get something new.
 

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What does their tune-up entail? Changing plugs, air filter, and fuel filter is a piece of cake. You dont need the stupid fuel system cleaner that they will try and sell you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
5111 said:
What does their tune-up entail? Changing plugs, air filter, and fuel filter is a piece of cake. You dont need the stupid fuel system cleaner that they will try and sell you.

Everything you just said. I'm worried about doing the plugs because I've heard they're a pain to get to and remove. True? If not can you guys provide some tips on how to do it myself. Autozone will let me borrow the tools right? If so, I'll give it a shot.

The car runs about 85% better but isn't perfect in my eyes. The engine didn't throw any codes and the mechanic said there wasn't any bad codes stored so what the hell? They checked all the plugs and cops and said they were all hitting. I don't beat on this car! Maybe I should. Maybe it's mad at me :lol:

The shop was Bert's Motor Works on Tezel and Mainland.
 

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Plugs on these are a piece of cake. You can scare yourself into thinking it's a delicate job when it's really pretty straight forward. The only specialty tools you need are:

1) a piece of fuel hose to put over the top of the plug to start threading it in. Works great to avoid any possibility of cross-threading.

2) a swivel 5/8 socket and a couple of extensions of various lengths.

3) tube of anti-sieze, use very little, just put a dab on the threads. Keep it off the shoulder of the plug.

4) some dielectric grease

5) Inch-pound torque wrench is optional. I've done it both ways. If you don't have a good sense of how tight something is, invest in one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
01GTB said:
Plugs on these are a piece of cake. You can scare yourself into thinking it's a delicate job when it's really pretty straight forward. The only specialty tools you need are:

1) a piece of fuel hose to put over the top of the plug to start threading it in. Works great to avoid any possibility of cross-threading.

2) a swivel 5/8 socket and a couple of extensions of various lengths.

3) tube of anti-sieze, use very little, just put a dab on the threads. Keep it off the shoulder of the plug.

4) some dielectric grease

5) Inch-pound torque wrench is optional. I've done it both ways. If you don't have a good sense of how tight something is, invest in one.
Thanks! I think I was scaring myself way too much.
 

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Plugs really are easy on these things. I thint that the Bullitt Archive has an excellent write up on it.
 

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True that. Brian, if you want I can talk you through the whole plug changing thing. It isn't all that difficult. I felt that it took more time to GET to the plugs (pass. side) than it did to change them. You can do it. Lots of controversy here on whether or not to use anti-seize. Torque to spec is important to avoid spark plug blowout. A magnetic spark plug socket negates the need for the rubber hose, but a very good idea if you don't have access to one.

The fuel filter changing "tool" that you will need is very cheap, and also takes more time to get the rear in the air than it does to change the filter. Just make sure the fuel system isn't pressurized prior to the work (no biggie on this one, you will just get gas on you if you don't--wear eye protection! Experience talking!)

Air filter should be pretty straight forward, and an easy change if you are already taking the air intake off to get to the plugs--buy a K&N or equilavent if you can.

Clean the MAF sensors with a q-tip and alcohol while you have it all apart. Be gentle with them, they are small and fragile. I've heard of build up on them causing some probs.

That should basically take care of the entire tune-up deal. Man, I wish we lived closer I could just show you how to do it all. Once you see it done, or do it yourself, you will cut the time in 1/2 for the next time...

Do you still have access to the base? I don't remember if you ever said that you were active/inactive or whatever. I know the base in San Dog and also in Silverdale had everything I ever needed that I didn't have. Sure saved time when it was all apart and I found that I needed another tool. Just plain sucked to put it all back together for another trip to Napa!! Again, experience talking! :)
 

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quick note, rather than paying for that "fuel inj cleaning" service, get a can of Seafoam, run that through per the directions after doing your tune-up repairs... Seafoam is the exact thing they use for that $60-85 fuel injector cleaning service, from what i've been told, at most major dealerships...

good luck!

shaun
 

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If you want, maybe a few of us local (not loco) guys can pitch in. I'd like to see how it's done. I have everything mentioned above, except the Seafoam.
 

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I know I'm late with the reply, but you are welcome to use my tools. I just got back into town last weekend. I can help with the change as well. My only recommendation would to change the plugs with a cold engine. My home mail is [email protected]
.
 
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