are any of the terminals loose? try twisting them on the post.... did anything light up or was it completly dead?
Time to replace my battery?
So after stopping into my girlfriend's house for a few minutes (maybe 15) I get in my car and try to start it up. I notice that when I press the brake I lose all power in the car. So we grab some jumper cables and try to jump it. When connecting the cables to my car I get no spark (seemed kinda strange). So I let it sit for about 10 minutes and get back in, the motor won't even turn a full rotation. So I'm hoping this is a battery problem and I can just replace it. Does anyone have any ideas? I just recently got my Kenne Bell installed, but it's been fine for the past week and a half or so, so I don't think it's an alternator problem, but if anyone has any ideas it would be appreciated.
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Dakota,
They had to disconnect the battery / remove the battery during installation, so I would check there first.
They also had to extend the alternator wire, so I would check the splice they made and the connection at the alternator.
Hopefully its the battery as that is likely the cheapest and easiest fix. Maybe the battery suffers from "shaken baby syndrome" from too much acceleration with the new Kenne Bell:lol:
Keep us posted.
Bruce
They had to disconnect the battery / remove the battery during installation, so I would check there first.
They also had to extend the alternator wire, so I would check the splice they made and the connection at the alternator.
Hopefully its the battery as that is likely the cheapest and easiest fix. Maybe the battery suffers from "shaken baby syndrome" from too much acceleration with the new Kenne Bell:lol:
Keep us posted.
Bruce
I still had interior lights. But couldn't get enough power to turn the engine.
If you want to quickly check your battery while in the car, if you have a digital volt meter, you can take readings with the engine off and while it is running. It will tell you if the battery is low or not, and while running it will tell you if the alternator is putting out enough voltage to charge the battery. Easy to do. If you have a dead short in the battery, it won't register at all, or at least the times I had that happen, there was little to no voltage shown. That attached link gives you the basics to checking it out, easy to do. Otherwise you can pull the battery out and take to a local auto store, most will check battery out for free.
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/battery.htm
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/battery.htm
If the battery checks out OK, and you just relocated it to the trunk (I infer this from the conversation), then you have too-much resistance in the cabling between the battery and the starter to turn the motor over.
It could be:
*Terminal connectors
*Cable Splices (if any are in the cable) (also the cable SHOULD be one piece, and at least one if not TWO or more cable-sizes larger than "stock" - all depending on total cable length)
*Circuit Breaker(s) (if you installed a main breaker when you relocated it - some no-name brands are total CRAP!)
*Grounding/Bonding straps between the engine and body are bad, or the connections are corroded or loose.
This is all I can think of off the top of my head.
It could be:
*Terminal connectors
*Cable Splices (if any are in the cable) (also the cable SHOULD be one piece, and at least one if not TWO or more cable-sizes larger than "stock" - all depending on total cable length)
*Circuit Breaker(s) (if you installed a main breaker when you relocated it - some no-name brands are total CRAP!)
*Grounding/Bonding straps between the engine and body are bad, or the connections are corroded or loose.
This is all I can think of off the top of my head.
even if it says 12v and you can see green threw the eye in the top of the battery doesnt mean it good. if you can get someone to load test it that would be the best way. can you remove caps form the top of your batt? if you can look in it to see if any of the cells are low...
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