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Discussion Starter #1
Is anyone else having a problem with a black cap on the top of the intake rubbing against the underhood insulation? Mine is & not only does the insulation have an ugly worn spot on it, but it has also chewed it up & now I have a bunch of little black pieces of crud (looks like pepper) on the manifold & surrounding areas. Does anyone think the dealer will replace the insulation or am I stuck with this one?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh, I'm pretty sure I know why it does it. As I've seen with plenty of other cars, many motors will vibrate just a little, especially under hard acceleration. & I'm sure we've all gunned the car at least once. So that's probably why it rubs around against the insulation. I just hope the dealer is willing to put a new one on for me.
 

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yeah, mine is rubbinbg the hood insulation in two places. Looks like the engineers didn't count on the new manifold being too tall to clear the insulation.
 

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Mine doesn't rub,cause it's gone! Got the scoop open! That insulation keeps all that heat around your intake,which equals loss power.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Two things I'd be concerned with by removing the hood insulation. One is the noise factor, a lot of that material acts as a sound dampener. But I like a loud engine & exhaust, so I don't care about that. More importantly, though, you may notice paint discoloration on your hood because the insulation isn't there to keep the heat away. I've seen this on several older cars, maybe it isn't a problem with new paint jobs. Then again, with clearcoat, maybe it's a bigger concern; I don't know. Also, removing the insulation doesn't really cool down your engine bay, at least not enough to make any noticable difference (not in my experience, anyway. Other people may say differently). IMO, the biggest factor in lowering your engine bay temperature is to coat your headers. I have Jet Hot coated Edelbrocks on my Caprice & they lowered the temp 15-20 degrees depending on how long the car has been running. That can make an honest difference in intake temperature.
 

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My Bullitt is in the shop as we speak getting a new hood liner due to that rubbed spot as well as a new trunk liner from bad fitting parts. It took two weeks to order!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I had the Bullitt at the dealer this weekend & they replaced the insulation with a new piece. Guess what? 40 miles later & the new one is rubbing off in TWO places & it's worse than the first one. WTH! They also didn't replace 4 of the plastic pins that hold the insulation in place, so I've got these big holes in the padding, which looks really stupid. I'm getting kinda pissed about this.
 

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Hey Josh
What dealer did you take it to? If you went to Metro, they really suck. I had a 93 cobra and they had to repair the swith for the electric window. I had to bring it back twice because they never put the door back together completly. They left off most of the clips and several screws that was holding the door panel on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Metro? Ha ha, good one. I'll buy parts from their service department, but that's it. I've been in there several times & met one pretty cool dealer; he actually looked at a neighbor's 79 TA & I remembered him. But the rest of their staff are arrogant & snobby. I went in there on January 4 to order a Bullitt & the salesman treated me like crap. If he hadn't been a jerk & wanted an extra $500, I would've ordered from them & my Bullitt might be in the 200's. But, to answer your question, I bought my Bullitt at Stan Martin Ford down in Hudson. I know Eric, the VP, from the River Rats organization. I like dealing with a dealer who I personally know because I figure they'll go the extra mile for me. The flipside to that is, I don't want to be a nuisance & expect preferential treatment either. & while it's a pain driving the 40 miles down there, it does give me a chance to take the Bullitt out for a ride! :razz:
P.S. - So when are we gonna get together?
 

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Yeah, Metro is very bad. I bought mine at Latham Ford and the salesman was great and so was the sales manager but I haven't dealt with their service department yet. I'm sure if I do, it won't be a pleasant experience. It seems like I always have to fight with a service department to get problems fixed right no matter what the dealership. But if I don't see you tomorrow night at Guptils ( I'll be there around 6pm just checking out the cars) how about Saturday morning, around noon.

John
 

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I found out something interesting yesterday while my car was up on the lift. First I found a hole on the driver's side floor board and noticed the floor pan on the drivers side is slightly dented in. Later discovered that there are two rubber plugs one on each side of the car that are seated in rubber disks the size of a coffee cup lid (just under the front seats). Pulled them away and discovered scratched up bare metal. Ford dealer-body shop thinks its were the assembly plant held onto the floor during assembly. Checked a new GT in the dealer lot and the same thing with that one as well. Just figured I'd let you guys know if your interested. I don't care much for rust...did in my 70 Mach1.
 

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Guys,

While not ideal, zip tie the resonator to the alternator bracket assy. This will keep the resonator from rubbing, and at least keep the problem from getting worse.

Beware, the hood pad you recieve to replace the boogered up one may be wrong. Seems that the stock did not get exhausted from the supply depot. The dealership is working on resolving mine. Might take a bit though.
 

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I too have the marks. I think all of us need to take the cars back every week and demand a new one. It is a manufature defect in design not wear and tear.
 

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Mine too, # 3185.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: LesnTea on 2001-10-05 00:37 ]</font>
 

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I must be one lucky S.O.B. I have not had any fit problem's.
 

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It is actually the hose that goes to the isc that comes from the airbox that is rubbing my hood insulator on mine,I am going to check into re-routing the hose with an elbow and see if that helps and then replace the hood pad.
 
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