waxing recommendations
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14,863 Posts
I pretty much stay with and swear by all the mequiers products
so try the liquid gold class wax maybe once a month and then after washing use the spray detailer ( its great for quick shine and touch ups in between waxing )
so try the liquid gold class wax maybe once a month and then after washing use the spray detailer ( its great for quick shine and touch ups in between waxing )
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10,404 Posts
Mother's or Griot's Garage for me, although lately I have been using Mother's. I had a few different waxes on the Bullitt and the Mother's looked the best to me and my wife.The weather will takes it toll on any wax, also the heat helps break down the wax. You should be able to tell by how the water lays on the finish after washing, about how often to wax.
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85 Posts
How do you guys keep it off black parts? Painter's tape or careful eye/hand combination?
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10,404 Posts
Dress the black vinyl first, or be very careful. I used Mother's Protectant on the vinyl, looks good and lasts a long time. Painters tape also works.
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495 Posts
You going to tell me to "sand floor" next?
I have a system that works really well. I live in Socal as well, and my car is outside a good deal of the time since it's my daily driver, (Although I work a 1-1/2 away from my house.
Washing:
Never use dawn dish washing soap. It will strip you wax. If you are planing to do a full waxing it's ok, but don't use it for regular washes; use a quality car wash soap.
I use a microfiber wash mit. Not the ones with the long worm looking things, I find the get too heavy. I use two 5-gallon buckets. One for the soap and one for rinsing. I also place a cheap towel at the bottom if the buckets with something to weigh it down. I find that this traps some of the dirt. Adam's Polishes has some kind of dirt trap that sits at the bottom of the bucket but I haven't tried it yet...
Start at the top and work your way down turning and rinsing out the mit often. Work the sides only going about 3/4 of the way down. Now work the bottom 1/4 of the car and rinse the mit twice as often.
Once you have spray rinsed, take off the sprayer off the hose and run and run a medium flow of water over the car starting from the roof, this really helps minimizing drying time.
Drying:
Use a high quality drying towel, don't skimp and get the Pep Boys special, even if they say scratch free! (I test all my towels on a inconspicuous area like the inside of the trunk).
I like the waffle drying towels from Griot's Garage, pricey but worth it... Give the car a light misting with quick detailer then start drying, getting the side facing the sun first. Some of my friends have bought a leaf blower solely for drying so they minimize the amount of time a towel touches their paint.
Prep:
Next I use a clay bar. Meguiars and Mothers has a kit. Even if you have a new car use it. I clayed my Bullitt and I was surprised how much the paint was contaminated especially on the horizontal areas. If you plan on detailing right afterwards give it a quick rinse to wash away any residual dirt.
I use the blue tape to mask off any black or rubber areas. For the small pieces like the windshield washer sprayers I use a thin piece of cardboard to block off the area. I have also heard of people using a Q-tip and applying Vaseline and wiping it off afterward. I'm reluctant to try that though.
If necessary use a cleaner like Meguiars. Most likely a new car won't need it.
Polishing:
Next I use a non-abrasive polish. I prefer Meguiars, the polish restores the oils in the paint, as well as giving it that "deep" look. Work it into the paint and wipe it off right away. Use it sparingly, a little goes a long way, and more will just be a waste. I use a mist of quick detailer and it wipes off more easily. If you really want a deep shine give it another coat.
Waxing:
For waxing I like Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax. I've used it since it first came out a couple of years ago and I love the way it looks. It's easy to apply and remove. Yet again I use the polishing towels from Griot's Garage.
Maintenance:
Keep a bottle of quick detailer and a towel handy for to handle accidents and for quick touch ups. Bird droppings and water spots should be handled asap. Both will etch your paint. In a parking lot sprinklers went off and water-spotted my hood. It took a good amount of work to get them off.
Finally keep your car covered. I recommend California Car Cover's Superweave, especially if you are parked outside. It's washable, and it's lightweight, although expensize, around $300. I have also had the Noah, a good choice but it's more bulky and your not supposed to wash it.
Washing:
Never use dawn dish washing soap. It will strip you wax. If you are planing to do a full waxing it's ok, but don't use it for regular washes; use a quality car wash soap.
I use a microfiber wash mit. Not the ones with the long worm looking things, I find the get too heavy. I use two 5-gallon buckets. One for the soap and one for rinsing. I also place a cheap towel at the bottom if the buckets with something to weigh it down. I find that this traps some of the dirt. Adam's Polishes has some kind of dirt trap that sits at the bottom of the bucket but I haven't tried it yet...
Start at the top and work your way down turning and rinsing out the mit often. Work the sides only going about 3/4 of the way down. Now work the bottom 1/4 of the car and rinse the mit twice as often.
Once you have spray rinsed, take off the sprayer off the hose and run and run a medium flow of water over the car starting from the roof, this really helps minimizing drying time.
Drying:
Use a high quality drying towel, don't skimp and get the Pep Boys special, even if they say scratch free! (I test all my towels on a inconspicuous area like the inside of the trunk).
I like the waffle drying towels from Griot's Garage, pricey but worth it... Give the car a light misting with quick detailer then start drying, getting the side facing the sun first. Some of my friends have bought a leaf blower solely for drying so they minimize the amount of time a towel touches their paint.
Prep:
Next I use a clay bar. Meguiars and Mothers has a kit. Even if you have a new car use it. I clayed my Bullitt and I was surprised how much the paint was contaminated especially on the horizontal areas. If you plan on detailing right afterwards give it a quick rinse to wash away any residual dirt.
I use the blue tape to mask off any black or rubber areas. For the small pieces like the windshield washer sprayers I use a thin piece of cardboard to block off the area. I have also heard of people using a Q-tip and applying Vaseline and wiping it off afterward. I'm reluctant to try that though.
If necessary use a cleaner like Meguiars. Most likely a new car won't need it.
Polishing:
Next I use a non-abrasive polish. I prefer Meguiars, the polish restores the oils in the paint, as well as giving it that "deep" look. Work it into the paint and wipe it off right away. Use it sparingly, a little goes a long way, and more will just be a waste. I use a mist of quick detailer and it wipes off more easily. If you really want a deep shine give it another coat.
Waxing:
For waxing I like Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax. I've used it since it first came out a couple of years ago and I love the way it looks. It's easy to apply and remove. Yet again I use the polishing towels from Griot's Garage.
Maintenance:
Keep a bottle of quick detailer and a towel handy for to handle accidents and for quick touch ups. Bird droppings and water spots should be handled asap. Both will etch your paint. In a parking lot sprinklers went off and water-spotted my hood. It took a good amount of work to get them off.
Finally keep your car covered. I recommend California Car Cover's Superweave, especially if you are parked outside. It's washable, and it's lightweight, although expensize, around $300. I have also had the Noah, a good choice but it's more bulky and your not supposed to wash it.
Joined
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10,404 Posts
I only use polish to remove scratches, polish also will remove some clearcoat, so I seldom use it. I cut my Griot's Garage microfiber wash mits in half, much easier to use.
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2,503 Posts
I wash with w/ 2 buckets and mitts. One for top down to beltline , second for beltline down and then the rims, tires and finally wheel wells and door jams.
I dry using a blade and the Absorber for all paint surfaces and clean terrycloths for all other surfaces.
Everything gets washed to be ready for the next time.
In Florida we have heat, afternoon rains,bugs, etc.
Since my B is a daily driver I clay, polish and wax at least 5 times a year and repeat a few days before any car show.
I prefer McGuire's - can't tell much difference with other good quality brands like Mothers. I do use Mothers Back to Black - a great product IMO.
Besides i'm addicted to the Car Crazy" show and really appreciate Barry McGuire's effort to keep the car hobby front and center.
I dry using a blade and the Absorber for all paint surfaces and clean terrycloths for all other surfaces.
Everything gets washed to be ready for the next time.
In Florida we have heat, afternoon rains,bugs, etc.
Since my B is a daily driver I clay, polish and wax at least 5 times a year and repeat a few days before any car show.
I prefer McGuire's - can't tell much difference with other good quality brands like Mothers. I do use Mothers Back to Black - a great product IMO.
Besides i'm addicted to the Car Crazy" show and really appreciate Barry McGuire's effort to keep the car hobby front and center.
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10,404 Posts
If you like Mothers Back to Black you will love Mother's Protectant. I used back to black for some time, then read on here (I think) about Mothers Protectant. It lasts sooooooooo much longer, my Back to Black has been put in the away file. I am sure you will like it much better. Washing does not seem to affect it as much as back to black. I also use it under the hood and it looks very good.
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2,503 Posts
Thanks for the heads up.rblack4405 said:
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5,012 Posts
for washing, try this foam gun instead of using a bucket
http://www.jasonsautospa.com/wash/index.html
http://www.jasonsautospa.com/wash/index.html
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