[Bullitt 736]

My passenger door just started having a problem. The window glass clips the trim above the door when I close the door. The door lines up perfect and closes correctly. I have to roll the window down about 1/4" so the glass misses the trim.

Looked at it again this morning. The glass is definitely coming up higher on the passenger sidfe than the driver side. Its probably the stop mechanism is not working when the glass reaches the full "up" position.

Anyone else have this problem? What was the fix?

 

[TXBLUOVAL]

My passenger door just started having a problem. The window glass clips the trim above the door when I close the door. The door lines up perfect and closes correctly. I have to roll the window down about 1/4" so the glass misses the trim.

Looked at it again this morning. The glass is definitely coming up higher on the passenger sidfe than the driver side. Its probably the stop mechanism is not working when the glass reaches the full "up" position.

Anyone else have this problem? What was the fix?

If it's not the simple door stop (that you're obviously hoping it is) then the glass may be coming out of one or both window frames. This happened to my driver side door (actually I think a previous owner either locked their keys inside and forced the window down or it was burglarized) and I had to replace the scissor assembly which unfortunately FORD will only sell WITH a new motor.

If this is the case then it is more involved but not really impossible to do (just time consuming).

You can access the door stop simply by removing the door panel. If you are careful you can pull the door panel and reattach the switch and watch how the window works and you'll be able to see if it is the stop or not (also best way to adjust the stop).

If you see it's a scissor problem you might want to consider giving me a call and I can walk you through the rest of it ... (YES ... IT CAN GET INVOLVED).

GOOD LUCK ~ !!! :neutral:

 

[Bullitt 736]

Thanks. I've read enough horror stories on the window regulator that I may pass that job on to someone in need of money and has lot's of patience. I've done a couple in other cars and still have the scars to prove it.

 

[fromthecoast]

I'm having the same trouble as well. A friend of mine has a local body shop and I am hoping that they can resolve the issue. I am going to take some pics and maybe that will help us resolve this problem.

 

[FL_Bullitt]

I found that the stops mounted to the backside of the window are mounted to low. So when they finally hit the stop on the door the window is too high and is forced of out the tracks until the stop comes into play. I tried to glue the window back in the track but a couple weeks later they came back out.

 

[TXBLUOVAL]

I found that the stops mounted to the backside of the window are mounted to low. So when they finally hit the stop on the door the window is too high and is forced of out the tracks until the stop comes into play. I tried to glue the window back in the track but a couple weeks later they came back out.

Thanks. I've read enough horror stories on the window regulator that I may pass that job on to someone in need of money and has lot's of patience. I've done a couple in other cars and still have the scars to prove it.

NONSENSE ... Yall are letting this psych Yall out ... Here is how I did mine:

I used the extreme-bonding silicon (don't have the tube anymore but it was clear ... dont recall the brand) and I placed a bead on both the glass (both sides) and the metal channel(s), after of course I had cleaned all mounting surfaces REAL WELL REMOVING ALL THE OLD STUFF.

I cleaned the surfaces with alcohol before applying the fresh silicon.

I then reattached both channels and clamped the channels in place.

I used two 2 x 2(s) the length of the window bottom and used C-clamps to clamp each section of the channels (one clamp at the front of each channel and one at the rear ... totals 4 C-clamps used). I tightened these hard, but not hard enough to bend the aluminum (or whatever it is made of) channels (using the 2 x 2 on each side kept the metal channels from being bent, etc.,and helped spread the bonding pressure equally on both sides of the glass channels). I let this set for 3 days total. I used a car cover on the BULLITT while this was being done.

Afterwards I removed the C-clamps, cleaned the excess silicon around the windopw channels with a razor blade and re-installed the glass/scissor and door assembly. YESSSSS ... I DID REMOVE THE 2 x 2(s) BEFORE INSTALLING THE GLASS ......... YES I DID ~ !!! :lol:

I haven't had any problems since (although I don't drive DHG 1276 as a daily driver). Everything so far has bonded real well.

One idea ... if you can't find the silicon mentioned above you might just try asking a glass shop to see what they say. They just may actually tell you and/or give you a tube ot two, expecially if you tell them they will have to work the door assembly. They probably won't want to do this and will be glad you are doing it yourself.

Getting the window/scissor assembly out of the door and back in is another whole narrative in itself (but if I can do it ... ANYONE CAN ~ !!!). :shock:

I hope this helps somebody out ... (???)