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Took the pin out of the block and cleaned it with file. Crimped the pin to make the contact tighter and used dielectric grease. The low speed fan now works again. Temporary fix to see if this will happen again.

 

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it WILL happen again. this is a extremely common problem.
save yourself some headaches and use this wire as a trigger wire for a relay to power the fan properly.
i used to work part time with a buddy who repaired these cars, mostly GT500 cars. i think i have repaired at least 20 cars with this problem and they were Wisconsin cars that rarely saw extreme heat.

You mean wire it outside the box with external relay? I would like the fan to kick in automatically by pcm. How do I properly wire it?

 

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Sounds good. Can you by pass the low speed fan or get rid of the resisitor on the fan to use the high speed fan only to cool?

 

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From what I read online and saw, this happens to all s197 including GT500 with factory fan set up. Later 11-on 5.0 cars burns the fan plug by the resistor. Only way to know if your junction block is okay is to take it apart and inspect. Compare to what I saw online, mine wasn’t that bad and was able to repair it with very little effort. Like what mrt said above, if it happens again, I will definitely go with external relay and switch set up or venture into installing a better aftermarket fan. The factory connection/plug is way too small to carry that much current and it will eventually burn due to repeated heat cycle.

 

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This guy did almost what I wanted to do. This video was posted very recently. He got rid of the resistor for the low and only using “manual” switch for the high speed fan.

What I wanted to do is to use high speed fan only to cool but have the fan come on auto by computer.

 

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If you were to go with the way above, you must install a water temp gauge to monitor the temp so you know when to turn the fan on. The stock idiot temp gauge will not indicate when the car is hot until it’s too late.

 

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Both low speed and high speed fan setting is designed and controlled by ecm to kick in at designated factory set temperatures.

maybe mrt can draw us a simple diagram to install a low speed external relay and how to wire it so everyone can keep the factory resistor set up. In reality, this is all street car really needs.

 

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From what I experienced, this was caused by loose connector in the fuse block. “when a connection is loose, the electrical current has to travel through a smaller contact area, which increases the resistance in the circuit. This increased resistance generates heat”. It has been well over a year since I repaired mine by crimping, tightened up that specific connector and using a bit of dielectric grease. I opened it up again to check couple weeks ago due to other unrelated issue but it didn’t get any worse from what I saw.